Hotel. Theatre. Cinema. Musical playhouse. Revival centre. Nightclub. Live-music haven. The building at 20-30 Bourke Street entertained Melburnians from 1854 until it sadly closed its doors in May 2014 and was demolished in 2020 to make way for a high-rise hotel. State Library Victoria has been there along the way, collecting pieces of its history for more than 150 years to preserve our city’s cultural narrative. Let’s take a trip through the theatre’s many incarnations using our archives to remember the gift it gave us.
Hotel on the hill
The story of the Palace Theatre started in 1854,1 when hotelier Thomas Mooney opened the National Hotel at 20 Bourke Street, a prime location on Parliament Hill at the eastern end of Bourke Street, which became known as Melbourne’s main theatre strip.2
Curious stories about the hotel’s history include its extensive cellar being rented out as a night restaurant called the Chop Cellar3 and its attic rumoured to have been a hideout for leader of the Eureka Stockade uprising, Peter Lalor.4 The hotel changed ownership several times from the mid-1800s and was renamed in 1857 as the Excelsior Hotel,5 which contained an entertainment hall that was once known as the ‘Queen’s Hall’:
Excerpt from Building, 13 March 1911, vol 3, no 42, p 21
In 1901, it became the Hotel Douglas,6 until it burned down in 1911.7
The Excelsior Hotel shown in Bourke Street from Parliament House, 1861. Charles Nettleton; H2490
A grand night at the theatre
Entertainment entrepreneur, James Brennan, built a new theatre on the site of the Hotel Douglas. On 6 April 1912, the opening night of Brennan’s Amphitheatre was a roaring success, including vaudeville performances from musicians, singers and some more undignified variety acts, such as the trained chimpanzee named Prince Charles, making his national tour.8
In the same year, Brennan sold the theatre to owners of the nearby Princess Theatre, Benjamin and John Fuller, who renamed it the National Theatre.
Left: Programme National Amphitheatre [Brennan’s Amphitheatre], 1912
Right: Chimpanzee reading the paper, ca. 19–, postcard, W. G. Alma conjuring collection; P.357/PC.2
In 1916, the theatre reopened as the Palace, after premier theatre designer Henry E White remodelled the interior with a 3-tier auditorium, marble staircase and Louis XVI-style plaster decorations.
Adding to the building’s cultural significance, the front room upstairs was rented out as studio space to renowned artists Max Meldrum (from 1917)9 and Arthur Streeton (from 1920).10
Left: Max Meldrum in his studio, 1950. Percy Spiden; H2008.121/29
Right: Sir Arthur Streeton, 1944. Jack Cato; H98.150/80
In 1923, the theatre was renamed the New Palace, with White remodelling the interior again, adopting Adam-style features that he had used when designing the neighbouring Princess Theatre.
Detail from Palace Theatre proposed alterations, H E White, 1923. Metro, formerly St James Theatre and the Palace Theatre, Bourke Street Melbourne 1923-1954; LTAD162/13
In addition to sharing owners and designers, the Palace and Princess Theatres were rumoured to have shared dressing rooms and even performers on the same night. The State Library’s Mahlstedt fire insurance plans show the theatres backing onto each other, demonstrating how this shared access would have been possible.
Detail showing adjoining rear access to Metro Theatre (formerly the Palace Theatre) on Bourke Street and Princess Theatre on Spring Street, from Melbourne plans. Section 1 [cartographic material]. Version 5, 1948, Mahlstedt’s (Vic.) Pty Ltd.
Now in CinemaScope!
In 1934, the Palace received another refurbishment and was renamed the Apollo. The Fullers renovated it again in 1940 and called it the St James cinema, before selling it to Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer (MGM), who branded it the Metro cinema in 1951. Melburnians flocked to the Metro to lose themselves in the latest MGM film releases.
Left: St James Theatre, 20 Bourke Street, Melbourne, 1940. Charles J Frazer; H2009.31/1
Right: Clark Gable and Lana Turner on cover of Metro News, 29 September 1943, Metro Theatre
In 1952, the cinema was remodelled by acoustic consultant and architect of more than 400 Australian cinemas,11 H Vivian Taylor.
Detail from Metro Cinema, Drawing no. 1493, H Vivian Taylor, 1952. Metro, formerly St James Theatre and the Palace Theatre, Bourke Street Melbourne 1923-1954; LTAD162/13
From 1912 to 2006, Bourke Street was home to 31 cinemas.12 The Metro was used as a cinema through the 1950s and ’60s, until its function changed in the 1970s.
A place for hippy dance and holy chants
The Metro became a live-theatre venue again in 1971, when music promoter, Harry M Miller, used it to stage his production of Hair for a season that lasted 39 weeks. The theatre then returned to operating as a cinema from 1974 to 1977 under its earlier name, the Palace. In 1980, a Pentecostal Christian revivalist organisation bought it, using it for services and dramatic productions until 1986.
Left: Hair theatre programme, 1971
Right: Political ephemera relating to Pentecost Revival Centre, undated
Clubbing till dawn
After being sold again in 1987, the venue reopened as The Metro nightclub. The VIP launch showcased Biltmoderne’s industrial design, which incorporated restoration of period features to respect the interior’s theatrical heritage.
Beat magazine (Issue 68, 18 November 1987, p 4 and Issue 70, 2 December 1987, p 2) ads for opening of Metro nightclub
As my regular haunts were smaller alternative music clubs, the visits I made to the Metro were usually to celebrate friends’ birthdays when they wanted a special night out. I remember the first time I walked through the historic foyer past the grand marble staircase into the clubbing arena, framed by a network of steel walkways.
State-of-the-art software allowed DJs and VJs to sync music with videos on a Great Wall of 25 screens above the upper dancefloor on the stage — no doubt, a nod to the venue’s historical narrative as a theatre and cinema. Here, we’d dance in a tight circle around a pile of our handbags and jackets on the dancefloor, while we gazed up at the screens where larger-than-life beat providers like Technotronic Pump(ed) Up the Jam.
The Metro nightclub Melb. i.e. Melbourne, 1980-2000. Rennie Ellis; H2011.150/1836
The top floor, historically used for the cheapest theatre seats, was now fitted with private VIP boxes boasting waiter service. Hidden away high up in the club heavens, this ultra-exclusive zone was aptly named God’s Bar.
Left: Metro entry ticket, Saturday 16 April 1988, Author’s collection.
Centre: Goo, Joy and Pop passes from Metro nightclub, Collection of Melbourne nightclub cards, 1990-2010. State Library Victoria; H2022.85/1-227
Right: Rennie Ellis photographer media pass to Metro Nightclub, 1990s. Papers of Rennie Ellis 1963-2003; YMS15790
A live-music haven
The Metro also became a popular live-music venue with a capacity of 1850 people and, after being taken over by the previous owners of The Palace in St Kilda, readopted its former name from 1916, the Palace Theatre. The venue hosted countless local and international acts, including Nick Cave, Kylie Minogue, James Brown and Prince.
I attended many memorable performances at both the Metro and the Palace Theatre — New Order, Blur, the Stone Roses, Primal Scream, Sonic Youth, My Bloody Valentine, the Chemical Brothers and the Specials, to name just a few.
The best thing about seeing bands there was that you could get a good view of the stage from every level. The upper balcony allowed you to take in the entire theatre, with the crowd far below you:
New Order, the Metro, 30 January 2002. Ticket and photo from author’s collection. © Photo by Alison Ridgway, 2002
Or you could go down to the ground floor — on the steps next to the mixing desk for a view over the sweaty crowd or right up front if you were a superfan:
Left: Primal Scream (with guest guitarist Roland S Howard), the Metro, 1 February 1995. Ticket courtesy of Veronica Witteveen. © Photo by Veronica Witteveen, 1995
Right: The Stone Roses, the Metro, 5 October 1995. Ticket courtesy of Veronica Witteveen. © Photo by Veronica Witteveen, 1995
However, I would often get there early to claim my favourite spot, perched at the front end of the mezzanine steel landing. I imagined that would have been almost where the old curtained private balcony was located, sharing the same intimate view reserved for VIP theatre guests 100 years ago. Here, you’d be jutting out almost over the stage so you could see sweat dripping off the performers’ faces.
Terry Hall from The Specials, the Palace Theatre, 5 April 2012. (100 years after the opening night of Brennan’s Amphitheatre on 6 April 1912) Ticket and photo from author’s collection. © Photo by Alison Ridgway, 2012
From mirrorball to wrecking ball
In 2012, the Palace Theatre was bought by developer, Jinshan Investment Group, who announced plans to redevelop the venue into a 30-storey hotel.13 This news was met with cries of outrage from Melbourne’s music community and cultural heritage advocates.
Bill posters outside The Palace Theatre, 2020. Courtesy of Save the Palace
A public protest group was formed in 2013 under the name Save the Palace, with organisers Rebecca Leslie and Michael Raymond motivating more than 1000 people to rally and collecting 45,000 petition signatures.14
Save the Palace protest group outside the Palace Theatre, 2016. Courtesy of Save the Palace
However, the Palace Theatre finally had to close its doors in May 2014. Then in November, construction workers entered the building and stripped some of the interior historic decorative features, sadly leaving little to be heritage listed.15
Left: Save the Palace organiser Rebecca Leslie rescuing stripped plaster decoration, 2014. Courtesy of Save the Palace
Right: Art nouveau tiles removed from theatre stairwell, 2014. Courtesy of Save the Palace
In 2016, at a Victorian Civil and Administrative Tribunal (VCAT) hearing, the plans were unsuccessfully opposed by heritage advocates. Jinshan was permitted to construct a 12-storey hotel, with preservation required of only a section of the façade.16
Façade retained of Palace Theatre, 20-30 Bourke Street, 2025. © Photo by Alison Ridgway, 2025
However, the building’s most valuable feature was, in fact, its ornate interior, which drew your attention away from the band on stage to marvel at the history that surrounded you.
Eventually in February 2020, a wrecking crew moved into the building to demolish the theatre’s interior and begin construction of a Marriott hotel.17
From mirrorball to wrecking ball
Left: Campaign to protect the Palace Theatre, 2016. Courtesy of Melbourne Heritage Action
Right: Demolition of the Palace Theatre, 2020. Courtesy of Save the Palace
After 7 years of campaigning to obtain interior heritage protection, this was a devastating loss for the Save the Palace group. However, their tireless efforts will not be forgotten, as their campaign materials are now a valuable addition to our State Library’s political and protest Riley & Ephemera collection. This collection showcases the state’s political and social life, documenting the issues that matter to Victorians.
A selection of t-shirts, flyers and placards from Political ephemera relating to Save the Palace collection, 2014-2020. Recent donation from Save the Palace to State Library Victoria, 2025
And so we mourn the loss of the last theatre on Bourke Street, once the thriving entertainment precinct of Melbourne. However, whilst we hold on tight to our memories, it is imperative that we also look to the future. Let’s protect and celebrate what we still have. So, the next time you’re inside one of Melbourne’s historic theatres, take a moment to look up and appreciate the handcrafted heritage details that surround you. Imagine the faces of all the people over the last 100 or more years that have stood in your spot. Feel the exhilaration they would have felt laughing heartily at a vaudeville performance, swooning over Hollywood idols on the silver screen, dancing all night to clubbing hits or singing at the top of their lungs to their favourite band. Then rejoice in that space now, celebrate its cultural heritage and create your own history.
Save the Palace organiser Rebecca Leslie, standing in her favourite spot (left of the mixing desk) watching the Paper Kites at the Palace Theatre in 2011. Used for Save the Palace campaign, 2013. Courtesy of Save the Palace.
More to Explore
You might also be interested in:
The punk and alternative music scenes of St Kilda (and Melbourne) in the 1970s and 1980s
Pram Factory theatre posters and the Australian Performance Group
Theatre and performance in Victoria research guide
Music in pubs — Pubs and hotels research guide
References
- Cole, R K, 1841, National Hotel, Index of Victorian hotels, 1841-1949, MS 7592, vol. 1, p 5
- Parson, P, 1995, Companion to Theatre in Australia, Currency Press, Paddington, NSW, p 353
- Cole, R K, 1841, National Hotel, Index of Victorian hotels, 1841-1949, MS 7592, vol. 1, p 5
- The observer, city and suburban advertiser, 14 February 1889, p 7
- Cole, R K, 1841, Excelsior Hotel, Index of Victorian hotels, 1841-1949, MS 7592, vol. 1, p 5
- Sands & McDougall Limited, 1901, Sands & McDougall’s Melbourne and suburban directory, Melbourne
- Van Straten, F, 2020, Melbourne’s ‘Cinderella’ theatre has gone to the wrecker’s ball (Part 1), Theatre Heritage Australia Inc, viewed 4 April 2025
- The Mail (Adelaide), 18 May 1912, p 6
- Perry, P and J, 1996, Max Meldrum & associates: their art, lives and influences, Castlemaine Art Gallery and Historical Museum, p 26
- Smith, G, 1995, Arthur Streeton, 1867-1943, National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, p 197
- Thorne, R, 1976, Picture palace architecture in Australia, Sun Books, Melbourne, p 26
- Cinema Index: Melbourne cinemas, suburban cinemas, Victorian drive-ins, 1997, Cinema and Theatre Historical Society, Victoria, Inc, p 4
- Dow, A, 2014, ‘Palace Theatre enters last chance saloon as the bulldozers warm up’, The Age, 5 Dec 2014, p 27
- Dow, A, 2016, ‘Palace Theatre to be demolished: VCAT’, The Age, 22 April 2016, p 13
- Dow, A, 2014, ‘Palace Theatre enters last chance saloon as the bulldozers warm up’, The Age, 5 Dec 2014, p 27
- Dow, A, 2016, ‘Palace Theatre to be demolished: VCAT’, The Age, 22 April 2016, p 13
- Fowler, M, 2020, ‘’Morally outrageous’: After 108 years, demolition of The Metro begins’, The Age, 21 Feb 2020
Well done to the State Library for giving us this touching and bittersweet memorial to a piece of Melbourne’s history.
Apart from being a thoughtfully illustrated, well- researched technical document, what made it unique was the interweaving of history with the author’s first-hand memories of the venue.
Brilliant article on The Metro!
I remember going clubbing in late 1987 and The Metro was packed with people – it was hot!
Great sound system too.
I have a box of nightclub passes from the late 1980’s/early 1990’s somewhere…
Great memories of my niteclub nights in Melbourne!