The Library’s collections are vast and varied, and in the Preservation department we encounter archives, records and items that comprise a diverse array of Victoria’s history. Such an example is the archive of a much loved regional restaurant, Sunnybrae (The Records of Sunnybrae Restaurant, YMS 16267) which was located two hours southwest of Melbourne in Birregurra.
The restaurant first opened for business in 1990, in the annexe to a restored nineteenth-century brick cottage named Sunnybrae, a labour of love for chef George Biron and visual artist and teacher Diane Garrett. The property around Sunnybrae was transformed over time to self-sufficiently supply the restaurant with fresh produce, including extensive vegetable lots, an orchard with stone fruit, pistachios and elderberries, groves of olive and truffle trees, bee hives, bread from an outdoor wood-fired oven, and later, even a field of ancient, low-yielding varieties of wheat. George had a passion for food provenance and seasonal, sustainable produce long before it became popularised in Australia. As well as operating as a restaurant set within a homely, welcoming interior, George ran a celebrated small cooking school for students who shared his interests in ‘slow’ food.
The archive covers the full history of the Sunnybrae property, from 1867 to George and Diane’s activities from the 1970’s onwards. In Diane’s notes about the history of the site, she writes of her arrival in Birregurra with her then husband Rod Gray in 1976, wherein they purchased and embarked upon the restoration of a derelict brick cottage (built c. 1867-1868) on a hill with 28 acres of land. After separating from Rod in the early 1980s, Diane met George, and together they spent ten years returning the house close to its original condition while also incorporating the addition of a modern commercial kitchen and dining area. Despite some initial skepticism about their endeavors, Diane and George’s restaurant ‘in the middle of a paddock’ became a highly regarded and successful food destination that attracted patrons from far and wide.
As well as a range of traditional collection items, including papers, newspaper clippings and photographic material, the archive also includes the tangible traces of a working restaurant. Many of the display and signage elements of the restaurant were designed by Diane, including receipt holders, menu covers and aprons, incorporating her drawings and collages.
Custom boxes were produced in order to house a series of empty coffee bags (reflecting the varieties of coffee served at the restaurant over time) and some of the items associated with the day-to-day processes at Sunnybrae, including a set of informational notes bound on a ring, a kind of flip-card reference for wait staff describing wine available at the restaurant.
The collection also reflects the development of the gardens at Sunnybrae, tracking plants and vegetables grown and tested on site. It provides an insight into George’s research on the extensive variety of produce that he utilised for his recipes, much of which was sourced from the Sunnybrae garden.
Perhaps most interestingly for food enthusiasts, the collection captures the evolution of the menu over the years, documenting what was served throughout Sunnybrae’s history, in addition to many of the subjects covered in George’s cooking classes.
Sunnybrae reopened in 2008 after an 8 year hiatus, during which time it had reverted to a private residence for George and Dianne, allowing them some time and solitude after many years of operating a busy restaurant in their home. The restaurant closed permanently in 2013 after being sold to renowned Australian chef Dan Hunter, who has transformed the space into its current incarnation, the award-winning Brae. George and Diane lived at the Sunnybrae site for over 30 years, championing fresh and local ingredients and pioneering a unique approach to regional dining, which is reflected so richly in the archive available at State Library Victoria.
NOTE: This collection is currently being processed in Preservation prior to being catalogued and will be available for access after September 2020.
This post was written by Jessye Wdowin-McGregor, Preservation Technician
More to Explore
A review of Sunnybrae Restaurant, acknowledging George Biron’s pioneering interests in ‘slow’ food
An article featuring George Biron’s ancient grain growing explorations
Announcement of Dan Hunter’s new endeavour on the site of Sunnybrae Restaurant in 2013
Talking of “slow” food – I have a menu from the lunch that George & Di hosted for Carlo Petrini of Slowfood signed by Carlo & others from back in 1999?
Happy to include it with George’s memorabilia if it is of value.
Thanks Jeff.
I have put your collection offer through to the relevant librarians.
Paul
Great article – brings back happy memories of many family celebrations held at Sunnybrae from 1999.
I remember the time, possibly around Christmas that George and Dianne generously hosted a lunch for the older frail residents of the Birregurra district at Sunnybrae. As the then district nurse I was among the volunteers to help seat, serve and clear up. The meal was rich and magnificent, but unable to be fully appreciated by the guests who were so compromised by frailty, and their small and simple appetites. Tho they all certainly loved the ambience, opportunity and Georges generosity and felt so very very special being at Sunnybrae that Christmas. And those of us who worked with those elders mentally thanked George often.
What a wonderful collection of memorabilia. I am constantly amazed at those early archivists who had the presence of mind to retain records which now reside in our State Library just waiting to be rediscovered.
George and Diane must have so many wonderful stories to tell – an RN podcast maybe?
Oh how lovely to read this article about George and Dianne. I loved going to Sunnybrae and it will remain my favourite restaurant for ever. Today I’m preparing for a pre Christmas celebration using the recipes from a wonderful couple of days – probably 25 years ago – spent at Sunnybrae and the cherries in sour cream are still as popular as ever. Sadly there was one other ingredient which my (very old now) brain can’t seem to remember but they will be lovely anyway. I stayed at a B & B to attend the course and it must have been late Spring because I remember the lady who ran the B & B had platted the leaves on the daffodils so that they looked tidy. Lovely, lovely memories. Sandi Harvey
Thank you for reading the blog, Sandi – it’s so wonderful to hear of your recollections of Sunnybrae; what an impact the restaurant and George and Diane have had on so many. Lovely to know George’s recipes live on with you and your family! Jessye.
Hi Sandi Cheery and Walnut Salad
For the cherry and walnut salad pit the cherries and mix with sour cream and leave for a few hours. Add the walnuts and black pepper just before serving. All the best George